Fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London and New York are the main world events of the industry, to which the attention of industry professionals is riveted. Chapurin brand for a long time he took part in the Paris Week. We managed to enlist the support of the community, top professionals worked with us: makeup artists Tom Pesho and Charlotte Tilbury, stylist Patti Wilson, models Naomi Campbell, Lara Stone, Vlada Roslyakova and many others.
Despite the growing popularity of online collection presentation formats, in my opinion, there is no replacement for offline shows yet. And it’s great that brands have the opportunity to interact with the audience in this way: critics, influencers, buyers and buyers. Modern fashion weeks not only shape the trends of the season, but also reflect the social agenda associated with ecology, acceptance, and tolerance. And this is to be welcomed.
Many interesting trends were announced at the men’s shows, but the main ones are attention to laconic silhouettes, cropped clothing, pastel mixes and layering. Zagna showed great combinations of beautiful fabrics, Dior talked about men’s tailoring, and Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten talked about prints in menswear. Some designers have introduced elements of traditional women’s clothing into the collections, for example, skirts at the Prada and Dior shows (the star of the Twilight saga Robert Pattinson came to the Dior show in a skirt. — Izvestia).
If we talk about women’s wardrobe, then among the main trends we can distinguish new tailoring (suits and their variants), faux fur, stylization of work uniforms, mini-shorts, maxi-coats, pastel colors, black total looks, crop tops.
Shows at the Week in Paris are a review of designers, members of the French haute couture syndicate. When we talk about it as art, it’s just about couture. It is difficult to single out trends here; rather, these are the feelings of designers, hyperbolic creativity without an aggressive touch of commercialization. Therefore, we are not talking about trends, but about statements: John Galliano – about boudoir-grunge aesthetics and nostalgia for his days at Dior, Giorgio Armani – glorifying the fragility and variability of a woman.
Regarding Schiaparelli, I can say that I am against restrictions and bullying from scratch. This brand feeds on the aesthetics of surrealism, so the appearance of such a move as animal heads is justified. Moreover, these are not stuffed animals, but artificially created models. It’s like being indignant at the statues of lions and horses in St. Petersburg.
The fashion world is global and we are watching what is happening there. Of course, the trends will reach our country, since we are not isolated from the world. This is a global industry, and Russian design is part of it. But whether they will become massive is a big question: many brands that broadcast trends among buyers have left. And it’s hard to make replacements.
I do not think that there are any divisions in the perception of trends on the basis of the principle of “ours – not ours.” It’s all artificial. Prada’s designs are loved in both China and Mexico, while The Row is adored by Muscovites and Londoners.
The world of fashion provides universal tools, they are the same for everyone, unless there are artificial legislative prohibitions on some wardrobe items or images, as in some Asian countries. Perhaps Russian fashion will try to pay more attention to national crafts, the origins of rich Russian culture, our heritage. But the interpretation of these motives should still be modern and relevant in terms of global trends.
The Russian fashion industry will have to develop in line with the world, it has no other way. As for textile production, it needs to be developed, but this is a long-term investment that few people are ready for. The materials from which things of domestic brands are sewn are 90-100% imported. It is almost impossible to find high-quality Russian-made fabrics for designer clothes. Perhaps world turbulence will push the development of textile production in our country, which our designers lack so much.
Igor Chapurin is a popular Russian fashion designer, Honored Artist of the Russian Federation
The position of the editors may not coincide with the opinion of the author